Burst Fade: What It Is, Who It Suits and How to Ask for It

What makes the burst shape different

The burst gets its name from the way the fade spreads out from the ear like rays: shortest right at the ear, getting longer in every direction. Instead of a horizontal line around the head, the fade is a curved patch on each side.

Above the ear the curve rises toward the temple, in front it runs into the sideburn, and behind it arcs down and stops before the nape. The back and the crown stay at full length, which is the whole point of the cut.

The tops a burst fade is built for

A burst fade exists to support a hairstyle that keeps weight down the middle and at the back. Clearing the sides around the ear makes the central strip or the back length look deliberate rather than overgrown.

• Mohawk and faux hawk: the burst clears the sides while the strip continues down the back. It is softer than a shaved-sides mohawk.
• Modern mullet: short around the ears, long at the nape. The burst is the cleanest way to cut the short part; see the modern mullet.
• Curly top: curls can grow over the back of the neck while the ears stay clean, which suits people growing their curls out.
• Wolf cut and shaggy tops: a light burst keeps the ear area tidy without cutting into the layers.

Who should not get a burst fade

Skip the burst if you want a short back. Many people ask for a burst because they like the curve in a photo, then are surprised the nape is left long. If you want your neckline clean and the back short, a drop fade gives a similar curve while carrying the fade down across the back.

It can also look odd on very straight, fine hair cut short all over, because there is not enough length at the back to show the contrast. And in offices where a mullet or mohawk would not fly, the burst will read as the same statement, even if it is cut neatly.

Skin burst or taper burst?

The bottom of the burst can go to skin for a sharp curve or stop at a short guard for a softer, taper-like effect. A skin burst makes the semicircle obvious; a taper burst at a 1 or 2 guard looks more like a well-kept mullet with clean ears.

We choose based on your hair colour and how often you come in. Dark hair on pale skin shows the curve sharply at skin; lighter hair may need skin to show anything at all. If you want the softer version, ask for it through our taper fades service.

Growing a burst fade in

Growing a burst in is easier than growing out most fades, because the long back is already there. You only need the semicircles to catch up.

Tell your barber you are growing it in and ask them to stop taking the curve to skin. Over the next two or three visits they will lengthen the guard at the ear and trim the back only to keep it even. After around six weeks the sides will be long enough for a scissor cut or a neck taper.

1. Visit 1: move the ear area from skin to a 1 or 2 guard.
2. Visit 2: leave the burst area alone except for a clean-up around the ear.
3. Visit 3: blend the sides into the back with scissors and choose the new shape.

Getting it cut at Markcutit

We start with a consultation on where your ear sits and how long you want the back, then map both curves so they match from the front. The shape is built with guards and detailers, cleaned with a razor lineup, and finished with the hot towel, wash and head massage included in every service.

Book it as a Haircut Only on our booking page. The comparison with a drop fade is covered in drop fade vs burst fade.