Curly Fade: How to Fade the Sides and Keep Your Curls on Top

How much length curls need to spring

Curls need enough length to complete at least one full turn, or the top reads as frizz rather than definition. For loose curls that is about 5 cm; for tighter ringlets closer to 7 or 8 cm. Anything shorter and you end up with a textured crop with some kink in it, which is fine if that is what you want.

Shrinkage is the big trap. A curl stretched out straight might measure 10 cm, then spring back to 5 cm once dry. We measure and cut based on the dry, curled length, not the stretched one.

• Loose waves to 2B curls: 5 to 7 cm on top.
• Springy 3A to 3B curls: 6 to 9 cm.
• Tight 3C curls: 7 to 10 cm, and a taper rather than a high fade to avoid a pointed shape.

Why we cut curly tops dry

Every curl sits differently, and water hides that. Cut wet, a curl that looks even can dry into a group that is noticeably shorter or longer than its neighbours, leaving holes and bumps in the shape.

Dry cutting lets us see each curl in its real position and trim it where it lives. We often cut curl by curl on the top, shaping the overall silhouette first with scissors, then refining individual curls that stick out. The sides are clipper work as with any fade; the top is where the dry method matters.

Come in with your curls in their normal state, ideally a day after washing, without heavy gel. It is the most accurate picture we can get.

Which fade to pair with curls

Curly hair already adds width on top, so the fade choice controls whether the head looks round, tall or balanced. A lower fade keeps some weight at the sides, which suits wider curly tops; a higher fade makes the curls look taller.

How we build a curly fade in the chair

The blend point between the fade and the curls needs the most care. Curls sit away from the scalp, so a fade that looks smooth on straight hair can leave a visible step under a curly top. We blend a little higher into the curl than we would on straight hair to hide it.

1. Look at the dry curls, the density at the crown and where the curl pattern changes from the top to the sides.
2. Set the fade line, usually lower on curly clients so the transition sits under the widest part of the curls.
3. Blend the fade upward with guards and clipper-over-comb until it meets the curls with no shelf.
4. Shape the top dry with scissors, keeping it slightly longer at the crown so the shape does not look flat at the back.
5. Detail the edges and finish with a razor lineup, then wash and apply a curl cream so you see the result defined.

Defining your curls after the cut

Curls look best with moisture and minimal handling. After washing, while hair is soaking wet, rake in a curl cream or leave-in conditioner, scrunch upward, and let it dry without touching it. A diffuser on low heat speeds that up in winter.

Skip the towel rub, which roughs up the cuticle and creates frizz; blot with a T-shirt instead. Our full routine is in how to style curly hair, and if frizz is the main battle, see fixing frizzy hair.