How to Use Hair Gel Without Crunch or Flakes

What gel does that other products do not

Gel forms a clear, flexible film around the hair as it dries, which holds shape firmly and keeps curls grouped into defined ringlets. Most gels are water-based with a polymer such as PVP or a natural thickener like flaxseed or aloe.

That film is what gives gel its strongest hold among common styling products, and also what makes it crunchy if you use too much. Unlike pomade or clay, gel works best when the hair is wet, because the polymers need water to spread before they set.

How to apply gel for a wet look or a clean style

For a sleek or wet-look style, apply gel to wet hair and comb it straight into shape before it starts to dry. Working with semi-dry hair drags the gel into streaks.

1. Wash or rinse, and blot off the drips with a towel. Leave the hair noticeably wet.
2. Squeeze out a coin-sized amount and spread it between your palms.
3. Work it in from the roots out, covering the whole top and the sides that need to sit flat.
4. Comb the hair into place: straight back, to the side, or forward, depending on the cut.
5. Leave it to dry fully without touching. Touching gel while it sets causes frizz and flakes.
6. For a softer finish, once it has dried, rub a drop of light oil between your hands and lightly press it over the surface.

Scrunching gel into curls

For curls, the best method is to scrunch gel into soaking wet hair, then leave it until completely dry. Gel keeps curl clumps together so they dry defined instead of frizzy.

After a light leave-in conditioner, take a small handful of gel, glaze it over the surface with flat palms, then cup the ends and squeeze upward toward the scalp. You should hear a slight squelch. Let it air dry or use a diffuser on low heat. When it is completely dry and feels hard, scrunch again with dry hands to break the cast: the curls stay defined but soften. Our page on styling curly hair for men covers the rest of the routine, and a curly fade is the cut we most often pair it with.

Choosing an alcohol-free gel

An alcohol-free gel is worth choosing if your hair is dry, curly or prone to frizz. Some gels use short-chain drying alcohols such as alcohol denat. to speed drying, and heavy daily use can leave hair feeling brittle.

Look at the ingredient list: alcohol denat., SD alcohol or isopropyl alcohol high on the list suggests a drying formula. Fatty alcohols such as cetyl or cetearyl alcohol are different and are generally conditioning. Gels made with aloe or flaxseed tend to be gentler, though usually with a softer hold.

How to avoid crunch and white flakes

Crunch and flakes almost always come from too much gel, applying it to dry hair, or mixing it with an incompatible product. Each has a fix.

• Use half of what you think you need. You can add more, but you cannot take it out without washing.
• Apply to wet hair so the gel thins out and coats evenly.
• Do not layer gel over a heavy leave-in or oil; the two can separate and flake.
• Keep your hands off until it is fully dry, then scrunch out the cast.
• Wash it out daily or every other day; gel build-up on the scalp can look like dandruff, and a doctor or dermatologist is the right call if flaking persists after washing.