How to Style Hair Without Product: Drying, Direction and the Cut

The cut does most of the styling

A haircut that follows your natural growth pattern does most of the styling for you. If the cut asks the hair to go against a cowlick or a double crown, no amount of drying will hold it without product.

At the consultation we look at which way the hair falls at the crown, the front and the nape, and shape the cut to sit with that growth. That is why a well-placed crew cut or a short French crop can look tidy with nothing in it, while a tall quiff almost always needs help.

How to style your hair with only a towel, dryer and comb

The method is to control the hair while it is damp, because damp hair takes on the shape it dries in. Once it is fully dry, it mostly stays where you left it.

1. After washing, press and squeeze the hair with a towel instead of rubbing it hard, which roughs up the cuticle and causes frizz.
2. Comb or finger the damp hair roughly into the direction you want it: forward, to the side or back.
3. Blow dry on medium heat, aiming the airflow from the roots toward the ends in that same direction.
4. Lift the roots with your fingers at the front and crown for a little volume, or keep them flat for a sleek finish.
5. When the hair is dry, switch to the cool setting and pass over the whole head for about 20 seconds to set it.
6. Finish with a light comb or a quick push into place with your palm.

Blow dry direction matters more than heat

Direction matters more than heat because hair sets in whichever direction the air pushed it last. Drying forward and then combing back leaves the hair fighting you all day.

For a side part, dry the larger side up and over and the smaller side down. For a forward crop, dry it forward from the crown. For volume at the front, blow the roots against their natural fall first, then flip them back into place. Our page on blow drying men's hair covers nozzle angles and brushes in more depth.

Towel technique that keeps hair smooth

A gentle towel technique keeps hair smooth and cuts down on the frizz that usually makes people reach for product. Rough towel rubbing is one of the main causes of a fuzzy, unsettled finish.

• Blot and squeeze rather than scrubbing back and forth.
• Use a microfibre towel or an old cotton T-shirt, which have a smoother surface than terry cloth.
• Leave hair slightly damp, not soaked, before you start drying with heat.
• Run a wide-tooth comb through while damp to set the direction early.
• On wavy hair, scrunch gently with the towel to encourage the natural bend.

When product-free styling works, and when it does not

Product-free styling works best on short cuts, medium-thick hair and hair with natural wave, because those hold their shape with little help. It is harder with very fine, straight hair, which falls flat, and with very long or very thick hair that has its own mind.

Very short cuts like a buzz or a short crop need no styling at all once they are clean and dry. If you want a longer, more structured style but hate product, ask us for a cut shaped around your growth and a tip on direction: sometimes a small change, like moving the part to where your hair naturally splits, is all that is needed. Book a scissor cut and mention it at the consultation.