Hair & Beard Care
How to Style Curly Hair for Men: Leave-In, Cream and Diffusing
Short answer: To style curly hair for men, apply leave-in conditioner and a curl cream to soaking wet hair, then scrunch the curls upward with your hands and let them air dry or diffuse them on low heat without touching. Never brush dry curls, which breaks them into frizz. On day two, mist with water and a little leave-in, then scrunch again to refresh the shape.
Curls need moisture more than hold
Curly hair needs moisture before it needs hold, because curls are naturally drier than straight hair. The natural oil from the scalp does not travel easily down a spiral, so the ends stay thirsty and frizz easily.
That is why curl routines start with conditioner and leave-in, not clay or pomade. Moisture groups curls into clumps, and clumps are what make curls look defined rather than fuzzy. Hold products, when used, come second.
Curl pattern changes the amounts. Loose waves can be weighed down by thick creams, so a light leave-in alone may be enough, while tight curls and coils usually drink up richer creams and still look fresh the next day.
How to style curly hair, step by step
Style curls while the hair is soaking wet, straight out of the shower. Every product goes on at this stage, and after that you leave the hair alone until it is dry.
- Shampoo only when needed and condition every wash. Detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in.
- Rinse, but do not towel dry. Leave the hair soaking.
- Rake a small amount of leave-in conditioner through with your fingers.
- Glaze a curl cream over the surface with flat palms, then scrunch it in by cupping the ends and squeezing upward.
- For more hold, add a small amount of gel the same way.
- Gently blot excess water with a microfibre towel or cotton T-shirt, scrunching upward.
- Air dry or diffuse on low heat, and do not touch until the hair is fully dry.
Scrunching and diffusing without frizz
Scrunching encourages curls to form; diffusing dries them without blowing them apart. Both work only if you avoid disturbing the curls while they dry.
To diffuse, set the dryer to low speed, cup a section of curls in the diffuser bowl, lift it toward the scalp and hold for about 20 seconds before moving on. Stop touching around 80% dry. Once completely dry, if the curls feel stiff from gel, scrunch them gently with dry hands to soften them. More detail on the dryer side is in our blow drying guide, and our page on hair gel covers breaking the cast.
Why you should not brush dry curls
Brushing dry curls separates each curl into individual strands, which turns defined ringlets into a frizzy puff. It also tugs on the hair and can cause breakage.
Detangle only when the hair is wet and coated in conditioner, using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. If you need to reshape dry curls during the day, use your fingers to lift at the roots or separate a curl gently, rather than combing through.
Refreshing curls on day two
Refresh day-two curls with water and a little product rather than washing again. Curls often look best on the second day once the natural oils have settled.
- Mist the hair with water from a spray bottle until damp, not soaked.
- Mix a small amount of leave-in with water in your palms and scrunch it through.
- Reshape any flattened curls with your fingers.
- Let it air dry for a few minutes or give it a quick low diffuse.
- Sleeping on a satin pillowcase or loosely covering the hair helps curls survive to day two.
The cut makes curl styling easier
A good curly cut removes weight where curls stack up and keeps length where they need room to form. Many curly-haired men end up with a triangle shape because the sides grow wide; a fade or taper keeps the sides tight while the top stays full.
A curly fade is one of the most common cuts we do for curls, and the skin fade service covers it. For more cut ideas, see our guide to haircuts for curly hair.
How to style curly hair for men: common questions
How often should I wash curly hair?
Most curly hair does well with shampoo two or three times a week and conditioner every wash. Over-washing strips moisture and adds frizz.
Can I use clay on curly hair?
Only on loose curls, and in small amounts. Clay tends to rough up curls, so cream or gel is usually a better fit.
Why are my curls frizzy?
Common causes are rough towels, touching curls while they dry, humidity and not enough moisture. Our guide on fixing frizzy hair goes through each.
Can I sleep on wet curls?
It is better not to. Curls flatten and frizz against the pillow; dry them first, or at least 80%, and loosely cover them overnight.
