Frohawk: Shaping a Mohawk in Afro-Textured Hair

Why a frohawk is sculpted rather than styled

Coily hair stands out from the scalp by itself, so the shape comes from where the barber cuts, not from product. We pick the strip out to full length, then cut the outline of the ridge the way you would shape a hedge, checking it from the front, side and back.

That is the big practical difference from a straight-hair mohawk. There is no daily spiking; you pick it out, pat it into shape and go. The downside is that the cut defines the shape completely, so an uneven strip cannot be hidden with product.

How we shape the strip

We cut Afro-textured hair dry, because it shrinks considerably when wet and a wet cut gives no honest idea of the finished height. The outline is set before any clipper touches the sides.

1. Pick the top out evenly from the roots so the strip shows its full length and any uneven spots.
2. Mark the strip width with a trimmer along both sides, usually a little wider than a straight-hair mohawk so the ridge looks full.
3. Shape the silhouette of the strip with clipper over comb and scissors, rounding or tapering it from front to back.
4. Fade the sides up to the strip edge, keeping the blend clean where the fade meets the base of the ridge.
5. Line up the forehead and temples along your natural hairline, then check the profile once more after a final pick.

Round, tapered or twisted: picking the strip shape

The silhouette of the strip is the main style choice. It changes how the cut reads from the side more than anything else.

Which fade to put under it

A skin fade gives the strongest contrast and makes the ridge look tallest. A drop fade that curves down behind the ear is softer and keeps more weight at the back of the head, which suits a strip that runs all the way to the nape.

A burst fade around the ear is the other popular option, especially when you want the back of the strip to finish in a small tail of length. For a subtler version, taper just the edges and leave the sides at a No. 1 or No. 2. Our skin fades service covers every height.

Protecting your hairline while you wear it

Because the fade and lineup get refreshed often, the front hairline takes a lot of trimmer contact. We follow your natural hairline rather than cutting a straight line into it. Pushing it back with every visit is how people lose their edges over time, and our page on whether your barber should push back your hairline explains why we avoid it.

Keeping the ridge full between cuts

Pick the strip out every morning with an Afro pick, lifting from the roots and then patting the outline back into shape with your palms. Moisture keeps coily hair from breaking at the ends: a leave-in conditioner or a light cream on damp hair is enough.

At night, a satin bonnet or a loose durag stops the strip being crushed flat and cuts down on friction. See how to wear a durag if you have not used one. Come back every two to three weeks, before the sides grow in enough to blur the edge of the strip.