Haircuts for Straight Hair: Fixing Hair That Sticks Up or Lies Flat

The two problems with straight hair

Straight hair usually does one of two things: thick, coarse straight hair stands straight out from the scalp, especially at the sides and crown, while finer straight hair lies flat and clings to the head. Both come from the same property, which is that a straight strand has no bend to help it sit in a shape.

Thick straight hair that sticks up is common, and short cuts on it often look like a brush a week after the barber. Fine straight hair looks neat on day one but can quickly look limp and greasy. The fix is different for each, so the first thing we check is which one you have.

A two-block cut stops thick straight hair sticking out

A two-block haircut cuts the sides and back short with no blending into the top, then leaves the top long enough to fall over that short section. The hair that would have stuck out at the sides is simply gone, and the long top lies down over it with its own weight.

It is one of the most practical cuts for coarse straight hair for that reason, and it grows out without the sides fanning outward. Our two-block haircut page explains the proportions. An undercut works on the same principle with a more dramatic contrast.

If you prefer a blended look, a mid fade taken high enough to remove the hair at the widest point of the head does a similar job.

A textured crop gives flat straight hair some lift

A textured crop cuts the top short, usually 3 to 6 centimetres, and point-cuts it so the strands are uneven lengths that hold each other up. Straight hair that would lie flat at an even length stands and separates once the ends are broken up.

The short fringe also helps, because straight hair falling forward covers the forehead neatly without the flicks you get with waves. A textured crop over a skin fade is one of the most requested cuts on straight hair in the shop.

Point cutting creates movement in straight hair

Point cutting means cutting into the ends of the hair with the tips of the scissors held vertically, rather than cutting straight across. On straight hair, which shows every blunt line, it is the main technique that makes a cut look natural instead of like it was cut with a ruler.

It also removes some weight without the root-level short hairs that thinning shears can leave. On thick straight hair we often combine point cutting with slide cutting on longer tops, which is covered in what texturizing means.

1. Cut the top to the overall length first, dry or lightly damp.
2. Lift sections vertically and cut into the ends at an angle to break up the edge.
3. Go deeper on the fringe and crown, where blunt lines show most on straight hair.
4. Check the hair dry and styled, then refine any sections that still sit flat or stick out.

Clean-line styles that suit straight hair

Straight hair holds a crisp, polished line better than any other texture, so classic combed styles look especially sharp on it. If you like a neat, groomed look, these play to that strength.

• A slick back with a fade, which lies smooth and holds all day on straight hair.
• A side part, with or without a hard part, for a formal or office cut.
• A French crop with a blunt fringe, where the straight texture makes the line look precise.
• A comb-over fade, which uses straight hair's ability to lie in one direction.

Styling straight hair at home

Straight hair usually needs a blow-dryer more than any other type, because drying it in the direction you want sets the roots in place. For hair that sticks up, dry it downward and forward first; for flat hair, dry the roots against the direction of growth for lift.

Use a matte clay or paste for textured styles, and a pomade for slick or parted looks. Straight hair can get oily faster since oil travels down a straight strand easily, so a lightweight product and regular washing keep it from going flat. Book a scissor cut every three to five weeks, since straight hair shows growth sooner than wavy or curly hair.