How to Use Beard Balm for Shape, Hold and Fewer Fly-Aways

What is actually in a beard balm

Beard balm is a soft blend of butters, oils and a wax, and that wax is what separates it from oil. Shea or cocoa butter gives body and moisture, carrier oils keep it spreadable, and beeswax or a plant wax such as candelilla gives light hold.

More wax means more control, which is why some tins feel almost like a soft pomade and others feel like lip balm. If you want the moisturizing side only, and no hold, oil is the better tool; we cover that in how to use beard oil.

How much to use and how to warm it

A little goes a long way: most beards between 2 and 5 cm need an amount about the size of a pinky fingernail. A long or very dense beard may need double that, but add it in a second pass instead of starting big.

Balm must be melted before it goes on, or it sits in clumps and leaves white flecks. Scrape it with the back of a thumbnail rather than scooping with a finger, which keeps the tin cleaner, then rub your palms together for 10 to 20 seconds until they look glossy and the balm has no visible lumps.

In a cold Mississauga January, a tin kept by a window or in the car can be rock hard. Hold it in your hand for a minute or keep it in a warm bathroom cupboard.

Working it through the beard

Apply balm to a beard that is dry or just towel-damp, because a wet beard dilutes the wax and it will not hold. Once the balm is melted in your palms, work in this order.

1. Run your fingers up against the grain from the neck and cheeks to reach the roots.
2. Massage lightly so some balm reaches the skin underneath.
3. Smooth your palms down with the grain from the cheeks to the chin.
4. Pinch the moustache between fingertip and thumb and pull it outward to the sides.
5. Use whatever is left on your hands to press down stray hairs along the cheek line and jaw.

Shaping with a brush or comb

The real shaping happens with a tool, not your hands, because a brush places each hair while the balm is still soft. A boar bristle brush works best on short to medium beards: it grips, spreads product evenly and pushes the hair flat along the jaw.

On longer beards, start with a wide-tooth comb to detangle and follow with the brush. Brush the sides down and slightly back to keep them narrow, and brush the chin down and forward if you want a squarer or more pointed bottom. Dermatologists recommend a comb for detangling and spreading product evenly.

• Boar bristle brush: best for smoothing and short beards.
• Wide-tooth comb: for long, curly or tangled beards.
• Fine-tooth comb: only for the moustache and precise edges.
• Blow dryer on low and cool: optional, to lock a shape faster.

Taming fly-aways and wiry patches

Fly-aways are the stray hairs that spring out from the cheeks and chin, and balm is the most direct fix for them. After the main application, take a tiny extra amount on one fingertip, warm it, and press the stray hairs down into the beard's direction instead of rubbing.

If the same hairs stick straight out every day, they are probably longer or coarser than the rest and need cutting, not more product. A few snips at a Beard Only + Lineup appointment will do more for a wiry cheek than a heavier balm. Coarse beards also respond to the routine in how to soften a coarse beard.

Washing balm out and keeping skin clear

Wax-based balm builds up over several days, so wash your beard with a gentle cleanser or beard wash daily or at least every second day if you use balm every morning. Buildup makes the beard dull and heavy and can trap oil against the skin.

If you get small breakouts under the beard, cut back to a thinner layer, keep the balm to the hair rather than the skin, and choose a non-comedogenic or fragrance-free formula. See a doctor or dermatologist if itchy, red or bumpy skin under the beard lasts more than a month despite changes.