How to Use Beard Oil: Drops by Length, Skin First, After a Shower

What beard oil is for

Beard oil is a moisturizer for the skin under your beard first and a conditioner for the hair second. Facial hair wicks oil away from the skin, and many men find the skin underneath gets dry, flaky and itchy, especially in the first months of growth and through a Canadian winter.

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests beard oil for men with normal to dry skin, a beard conditioner if your skin is acne-prone, and a gentle fragrance-free moisturizer if your skin is sensitive. So oil is not automatically the right product for everyone, and if a heavier product with hold is what you want, see how to use beard balm.

How much beard oil to use for your length

Start with less than you think, because you can always add a drop and you cannot take one away. Too much leaves the beard greasy, darkens light hairs and transfers to collars and pillowcases.

The numbers in the quick facts above are starting points for an average-density beard. A very thick or coarse beard may take a couple of extra drops; a patchy or fine beard usually needs fewer.

Applying it step by step

The best time is straight after a shower, when the skin is warm and the beard is clean but no longer dripping. Dermatologists advise applying moisturizing products while the skin is still slightly damp.

1. Wash your face and beard with a gentle cleanser and pat dry, leaving it slightly damp.
2. Tip the right number of drops into one palm.
3. Rub your palms together to warm and spread the oil.
4. Push your fingertips up against the grain to reach the skin, massaging the cheeks, jaw and under the chin.
5. Smooth your palms down the beard to coat the hair.
6. Finish with a wide-tooth comb or a boar bristle brush to spread the oil and set the direction.
7. Wipe any leftover oil on your hands over the moustache and the ends.

Carrier oils and what to look for on the label

Most beard oils are a blend of carrier oils, which do the moisturizing, plus a small amount of scent. Jojoba oil is popular because it feels light and is close in texture to the skin's own oil; argan oil adds shine; sweet almond, grapeseed and sunflower oils are common, lighter-feeling bases.

Heavier oils such as coconut oil feel rich but can clog pores in some people, which is worth knowing if you break out under the beard. Men with nut allergies should check for almond or other nut oils before using a product.

• Short ingredient list with carrier oils first.
• "Fragrance-free" or "unscented" if you have sensitive skin.
• "Non-comedogenic" if you are prone to breakouts.
• A dark glass bottle with a dropper, which keeps oil fresher.

Fragrance and sensitive skin

Essential oils and added fragrance are the most likely parts of a beard oil to cause stinging, redness or an itchy rash. If a new oil makes your skin react, stop using it; switching to a fragrance-free option often solves the problem.

Try a new oil on a small patch along the jaw for a day or two before using it all over. See a doctor or dermatologist if itch, flaking or redness under the beard continues for more than a month, or if you develop painful bumps. Flaking that will not quit may be seborrheic dermatitis, covered in our dandruff guide.

Oil after a trim or lineup

Fresh edges from a Beard Only + Lineup are a good reason to wait until the next day before oiling the cheek line and neckline. A freshly razored edge is more reactive, and the oil can make the sharp line look blurred.

Oil the body of the beard as normal that evening and let the edges settle overnight. From the second day, daily oil keeps the trimmed ends softer, which helps the shape we set look neat for longer.